(六) さようなら (Goodbye, Japan)

We had to check out of our airbnb by 11AM so we packed all our luggage before leaving the place, lump in my throat the entire time but I kept it under control by reminding myself to not let negative emotions ruin the last day I had in Osaka.

We visited Kuromon Market first where we had breakfast (fresh scallop and octopus aka the absolute best)

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I took this photo cus of the Totoro
I took this photo cus of the Totoro

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♡‿♡
♡‿♡
The best 100 yen matcha latte which, if given the chance, I would buy in bulk to bring home
The best 100 yen matcha latte which, if given the chance, I would buy in bulk to bring home

Our last sightseeing spot in Osaka was Osaka Castle, and we took the subway to Osaka Business Park which was the station nearest to the Castle.

Shortly after breakfast, my stomach started grumbling in the fashion of a stomachache, and I was left to divert my full concentration to keeping it in check throughout the entire subway journey. Hence, as soon as we reached Osaka Business Park, I dashed straight for the nearest toilet at the station.

Whenever I have to do a number two in public, the first worry that immediately jumps to mind is the availability of tissue paper and a bidet but because I remembered I was in Japan and not Malaysia, I waved the concern away as a baseless worry, having sown incredible faith in Japanese public toilets. So you can imagine my utmost shock when I discovered that the toilets in the Osaka Business Park subway station had no bidets. No array of buttons stuck to the toilet bowl that to this day, still amuse me greatly with its efficiency and, uh, precision. Not even the manual taps that some toilets in KL have in place of separate bidets. What they did have though, was a sensor on the wall that played nature sounds and the chirping of birds when they detect movement ie when you move to sit down on the toilet bowl (allegedly to cover the sound of your peeing so you don’t get embarrassed).

What an unnecessary contraption!!!!! An investment in the wrong type of infrastructure when they could’ve invested in bidets instead!!!!!! The nature sounds only served to agitate and mock the entire time I pulled on toilet paper endlessly, thinking about how bad an idea this was and how I wouldn’t wish my current predicament on my worst enemy, especially not if they were having diarrhea. (Like I was.)

Thank God when we exited the station we stumbled upon another toilet in the business building adjacent to the station and this time, I could almost cry in relief at the sight of the little buttons connected to the toilet bowl that were readily available for my needs. I was so glad and thankful that I even took a photo of their sinks that had a three-way use – soap, rinse and blow dry.

I love Japan technology
I love Japan technology

Finally liberated from the clutches of my stomachache, we headed for Osaka Castle.

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Photo credit: Rujia
Photo credit: Rujia

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same
same

And then it was finally, finally time to head back and we stopped at Dotonbori for ramen lunch at Ichiran. Throughout the trip, I’d heard Rumin’s aunt mention Ichiran a couple of times but I had no idea what it was like so when I entered the place, I was taken for a huge surprise ride.

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At the entrance was one of those machines I’d seen at fuji restaurants and I thought it would be like that so I placed a 500 yen coin into it and pressed the button with the most basic ramen selection. After getting my ticket, I thought that was it. I thought it would be the same procedure wherein I give the ticket to the person behind the counter and wait for my number to be called.

So I was surprised when we went up one floor and were given a piece of paper each by a server. On the paper were several rows of food details such as “soup consistency”, “spiciness”, “hardness of noodles” etc and in different columns, choices like “concentrated/normal/diluted”, “very spicy/normal/non-spicy”, “hard/normal/soft” etc for us to circle our preferences and I was both very shocked and fascinated (it felt like a cooking game). We brought the papers with us and went up another floor where the seats were (perhaps the next part should be explained with pictures).

Each person gets a cubicle like this (there are partitions separating each person’s cubicle which you can fold up if you want to)
Place ticket + survey form in front of the gap (which is actually the kitchen)
Place ticket + form in front of the gap in front of you (which is actually the kitchen)
Drinking water tap for your bottomless refilling needs
Drinking water tap for your bottomless refilling needs

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When your order is ready, someone will place your bowl in front of you through the gap
When your order is ready, someone will place your bowl in front of you through the gap
...and close it so you can enjoy your meal in peace
…and then close it afterwards so you can enjoy your meal in peace

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How neat is that!!! So very neat and the ramen was good too 10/10 would recommend and come here again

We still had time to spare before we had to head for the airport so we did some shopping at Shinsaibashi where I got some gifts and a new phone case.

Takoyaki! It tasted weird
Takoyaki! It tasted weird

And then commenced the dreaded journey to Kansai Airport where it was finally, reluctantly, time to say goodbye to Japan. 😥

The last photo I took of Osaka city as we walked to the subway station. I was trying to absorb my surroundings as much as I could, paying extra attention to sights, sounds and smells because they would all be gone soon
The last photo I took of Osaka city as we walked to the subway station. I was trying to absorb my surroundings as much as I could, paying extra attention to sights, sounds and smells because they would all be gone soon
Sad face at airport means sad right
Sad face at airport means sad right

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Obligatory pose for da Instagram masses
Obligatory pose for da Instagram masses
Want to go home already still haunted by anime
Want to go home already still haunted by anime wherever I go

We had gyudon at Sukiya at the airport and I ordered a gyudon with spring onions and egg but I had no idea the egg would come raw so for a while I was so incredibly confused to have my rice bathed in raw egg white until I found out that this was how it was supposed to be. I still didn’t finish it though, a heavy weight sitting on my stomach from the sadness and nerves.

Our flight was 2335 hours and my first step onto the plane was also my last step on Japanese soil.

EPILOGUE
KL at 5AM from the plane
KL at 5AM from the plane

For some reason, I got a Quiet Zone seat on the Osaka-KL flight which meant that there were few enough people in the entire section for me to occupy an entire three-seat row for myself. I spent the first few hours watching Hyouka on my laptop and trying to sleep (but failing miserably because 1) I have a history of never sleeping well on planes and 2) some idiotic part of my brain reasoned that since it hadn’t been cold on the KL-Tokyo flight, it wouldn’t be cold this time either! so I wore pajamas shorts and it felt like the freaking Antarctic Circle).

When it was finally announced that we would be reaching KLIA2, Japan already felt like light years away, like a wonderful dream I’d just woken up from.

This epilogue wasn’t written without reason because there is a story to tell about our domestic flight back home to Alor Setar.

We reached KLIA2 at approximately 5AM and our flight to Alor Setar was scheduled at 7AM. At this point, I was feeling as gross as I had been during the Osaka bus ride but worse because I was functioning on at most an hour of sleep and I was walking around in pajamas shorts and I just wanted to go home and sleep like a dead log for the next five million years or so. So that was all I thought of during the one-hour flight to Alor Setar.

However, after an hour, I was anticipating the pilot to announced over the system that we would be landing shortly but it never came. In fact, at one point, I felt the plane steadily ascending again and someone started retching very, very loudly and I could feel my stomach drop along with the contents in it. It didn’t help that the person next to me was also reaching for the vomit bag. As if I didn’t dislike flights enough already, I was absolutely terrified pinned to my seat, trying my hardest to focus on watching Haikyuu on my phone and not my surroundings.

And then finally, the pilot explained that we were experiencing really bad weather in Alor Setar and had been circling around in the sky so now we had to stop at Penang airport to refuel and wait for the weather condition to get better. This set my mind more at ease although not much because we had been in the air for almost two hours and my ideal location right then would be a bed, not an airplane experiencing turbulence.

At Penang airport, Rumin’s aunt opened up some packets of biscuits we’d bought from Japan for us to snack on and I was reminded that oh yeah, Japan was a place we’d just been to it didn’t even feel real anymore

Half an hour later, we got back into the air again and finally landed at the Alor Setar airport safely. I felt so tremendously relieved to be back on firm ground and even more so to see my parents waiting for me. In the car, I recounted the entire airplane experience excitably and incredulously and when I finally reached home, after taking a long cold shower and swallowing some mihun, I fell into a deep, dreamless sleep.

 

(四) Deer Nara

As in the wordplay of “Dear Nara” but “deer” instead because…deer…in Nara…no?…ok

I slept rather restfully all the way to Osaka, waking up a few times in the night when the bus stopped at rest areas and Rumin got off but other than that, it was one of the better bus rides I’ve had.

It was around 8AM when the bus driver announced (over a built-in PA system not unlike that in an airplane) that we had arrived in Osaka but I couldn’t feel anything other than grogginess and grossness until the bus finally stopped at the Osaka bus terminal and we got our luggage, one-track mind focused on the desire to take a long shower and clean up before I could afford to do anything.

But first, under Rumin’s lead navigation, we had to walk a distance under the morning sun with our luggage in tow to get to our airbnb rented room.

The pretty arduously long walk was worth it though, because when we entered the room after spending a couple of minutes trying to figure out how to work the combination key code to retrieve the room key, the interior exceeded expectations and the first impression that popped into mind was that it looked as comfortable and appealing as an IKEA showroom.

Rujia and her aunt's sleeping quarters next to the kitchen
Rujia and her aunt’s sleeping quarters next to the kitchen
Rumin and my beds in an adjacent room
Rumin and my beds in an adjacent room

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Welcome note from our Japanese airbnb hosts, Masa and Asuka
Welcome note from our Japanese airbnb hosts, Masa and Asuka

Link to airbnb listing in Amemura, Osaka which I would highly recommend 

It wasn’t a big space but it was just nice and it felt so homely for a home away from home and the beds just looked so inviting that it took all the willpower within myself not to flop onto it face first and sleep under the snug covers forever.

I was thinking that this was what my ideal university residence would be like.

We spent the next hour or so settling in (there were complimentary drinks and matcha kit kats and biscuits in the fridge *wipes tear*) and cleaning ourselves up, getting ready to head for Nara.

*Seijou chants echoing in the distance*
*Seijou chants echoing in the distance*

We had to pass through Shinsaibashi to get our train tickets to Nara so it was my first time seeing Osaka city in broad daylight (the walk from the bus station to our airbnb didn’t count because we took routes through narrow and secluded roads).

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I still don’t know why this guy on an advertisement board is the trademark of Osaka someone please tell me what he did

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We took the Kintetsu Line from Kintetsu Namba Station
We took the Kintetsu Line from Kintetsu Namba Station
Away from the city of Osaka and into quieter parts of Nara
Away from the city of Osaka and into the quieter region of Nara

After reaching the station and having lunch nearby, we found a bus stop a distance away where we boarded a shuttle bus that dropped people off at Nara attraction spots. We stopped at Todaiji Temple first.

For some reason, deer are significant symbols of Nara, and the long pathway leading to the temple (lined with food and souvenir stalls on both sides) was not only full of tourists, but also free roaming deer. I was actually pretty excited to…see these deer…because one usually only sees deer at zoos in Malaysia but the novelty wore off after the first three minutes, marginal utility dropping to the negatives especially when we finally got to witness (and smell) their excretion and defecation processes live in action.

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These deer get really, and I mean REALLY aggressive once they sniff food on you. Basically four-legged piranhas
These deer get really, and I mean REALLY aggressive once they sniff food on you. They are basically four-legged piranhas

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It's Prongs!!! What's he doing in Japan
It’s Prongs!!! What’s he doing in Japan

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boop
boop

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Photo credit: Rujia
Photo credit: Rujia
This is my favourite signboard in the history of signboards someone pls make a Deer Movie
This is my favourite signboard in the history of signboards someone pls make a Deer Movie
"Deer can smell fear from a mile away" - ancient proverb
“Deer can smell fear from a mile away” – ancient proverb

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Todaiji Temple, the biggest and oldest wooden structure in the world
Todaiji Temple, the biggest and oldest wooden structure in the world

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Once in Haikyuu hell, always in Haikyuu hell. Even in a souvenir shop in a temple
Once in Haikyuu hell, always in Haikyuu hell. Even in a souvenir shop in a temple

After exiting the temple, we walked a kilometer along a very nice pathway surrounded by tall trees which provided cool shade. At the entrance to Kasuga Taisha, it started raining so that was a nice reprieve from the scorching summer heat.

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Kasuga Taisha is famous for its multitude of bronze lanterns hung around the shrine
Kasuga Taisha is famous for its multitude of bronze lanterns hung around the shrine
One of the many Shinto shrines
One of the many Shinto shrines

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There was this darkened room filled with lit lanterns and it was so beautiful
There was this darkened room filled with lit lanterns and it was so beautiful

Then, we took the bus to Naramachi, couldn’t seem to pinpoint where Naramachi was exactly and found ourselves in a street called Shimomikado. We had udon dinner at a deer-themed restaurant (disclaimer: they didn’t serve venison [or maybe they did but we didn’t order it] but they had like edible deer-prints on the soy wrappers in our udon it was really cute).

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We had seen posters advertising a sort of lamp-lighting ceremony/festival (Chugen Mantoro) not far from where we were so we decided to stay in Nara a little bit longer to witness it. Come nightfall, we noticed more and more people were clad in yukatas and getas heading for Sarusawa Lake where the ceremony was going to be held at.

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And then we lurked near a pagoda temple and switched on the portable wifi provided by our airbnb hosts, waiting until the sky turned dark.

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This deer started chewing on a piece of paper out of someone's bag
This deer started chewing on a piece of paper out of someone’s bag

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Photo credit: Rujia
I’m screaming LOOK AT THOSE TWO POODLES POSING FOR A PHOTO / Photo credit: Rujia

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The entire place was so breathtaking and magical, it didn’t even feel like my surroundings were real anymore. I don’t even have anything to compare that night’s experience to because I’d never seen anything like it before. It was so surreal, ethereal, even.

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On our way back to the station back to Osaka, we passed by this shop where two guys were shouting comically while pounding on matcha mochi
On our way back to the station back to Osaka, we passed by this shop where two guys were shouting comically while pounding on matcha mochi

Upon reaching Osaka, we hung around Shinsaibashi for a while and we even got to watch a water spurting performance along the Dotonbori canal.

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When walking through Shinsaibashi to head back to our room, we passed by a huge SEGA arcade and I saw a signboard right outside with the Ichiban Kuji logo on it and in an instant, I’d assumed that they would be selling anime merchandise inside so I went in while Rumin, her aunt and sister headed for a pharmacy a few lots down the street.

It became apparent very quickly, once I’d scoured all four floors, that the entire place was filled with arcade and coin slots machines only and no merchandise sales anywhere. With the 500 yen I’d lost in Ikebukuro still lingering bitterly at the back of my mind, I wasn’t exactly itching to go for some rounds on the machines but I still had time to kill before our agreed rendezvous so what the hell, I searched for the Haikyuu machines and this time, they had the large figurines I’d seen sold in many shops in Akiba.

This arcade was emptier than the one in Ikebukuro, and it wasn’t difficult to guess why. The boxes in the machines were placed carefully so it would be almost impossible to get it even after a lot of tries, and they were placed on rubber rungs at that. If I’d felt hopeless in the previous arcade, I’d already given up upon first sight of this.

So in the end I just resorted to wandering around the place, watching people try their luck. I saw a guy who managed to get the box to fall halfway through the rungs but no matter how many times he tried to pick it up after that, it wouldn’t work and he left eventually.

And then at a different machine, I saw a different guy and a worker standing before it, the guy pointing at the glass screen before the worker opened it with a key, adjusted the box to the very edge of the platform and then closed it again. At this point, I  was completely frozen in place, eyes riveted at what had just happened. The worker turned around and I dodged behind a machine but I definitely saw the box drop and the other guy picking it from the flap in the machine.

What was going on!!!!!!! My head was filled with question marks and I was too curious to leave the place without finding out what had just happened, so I continued walking around as inconspicuously as possible while secretly tailing the worker.

The same thing happened another two times, and with a different person at that. My mind was sifting through all sorts of possible theories: maybe these two guys worked here? Or they were actually the bosses of SEGA? Maybe they were related to the worker? Maybe this was actually common practice that wasn’t unheard of and all you had to do was ask? The last one didn’t seem very likely or there wouldn’t be a niche market for arcades but I was just so dumbfounded and mystified and hey, maybe I was desperate to get that Iwaizumi figurine too. Desperate enough that I even whipped out my phone to google “Japanese arcade cheats and tricks” but all the results that turned up offered legitimate strategies to manoeuvre the claws and not secret passcodes you could whisper into the ears of SEGA arcade workers to get them to move the box around for you.

My attempt to be inconspicuous was greatly marred by the fact that 1) I was wearing a bright turquoise T-shirt and 2) I kept on exiting and reentering the arcade a couple of times, mortified that the worker had definitely caught me staring but unwilling to leave with an unquenched curiosity about this mysterious occurrence.

It was during this moment that I vaguely remembered Bellyn telling me about her arcade experience and how she and her brother managed to get the workers to adjust the difficulty level to their favour by asking them how to move the catchers. Deciding that I didn’t have much to lose (except maybe my dignity but that had already been a lost case a very long time ago that I’d given up on keeping track), I went up to a different worker, prayed that he hadn’t seen me walking around the arcade for the past 20 minutes (I didn’t think I could invest much hope in the prayer because as I’d said, bright turquoise T-shirt) and asked him in English how to play the arcades? while I was screaming internally who would enter an arcade not knowing how to play an arcade game!!! Am I right, stranger man!!! This plan in itself was already doomed to fail because he didn’t really understand what I was saying and I think I was already ready to give up the moment the words left my mouth (plus, he looked so baffled and confused that I was uncomfortable at his discomfort) but I persevered, deducing that if I was going to embarrass myself, I might as well do it all the way. Sorry, buddy, I’d already dug this hole for us and we’re ride or die pals for now whether you like it or not

He understood what I was trying to convey eventually, and I led him to the Haikyuu machines. He instructed me to deposit a 100 yen coin. I did. He pointed at the left arrow button. I pressed it. Then he pointed at the forward arrow button. I pressed it too. The UFO catcher descended and he held out a palm, the scene unfolding before us self-explanatory. My voice was too high, too fake when I exclaimed an “Ohhhhh” and he left without a word.

I’ve always read fiction of how the characters in novels “feel their cheeks turn hot in embarrassment” but I could never relate to it but in that moment. In that moment I related to it completely one hundred percent and without flaw and if it was socially appropriate to run out of a shop, I would’ve done it but instead I surprised myself by discovering that I still had restraint left within me to merely brisk walk out of the arcade, taking care not to make eye contact with anyone lest it landed upon the eyes of the poor worker I’d just lied to. I left, and despite our rendezvous being in front of SEGA, I walked down a few lots so no one from SEGA would see my goddamn turquoise shirt and leaned against the wall breathing a sigh of relief, cheeks burning up and heart beating so fast as I laughed silently into my hand and typed out a series of rants with trembling fingers.

Rumin and the others appeared after a while and we walked back to our airbnb, my chest aching from suppressed laughter as I tried as best as I could to repress the mortification of the memory to be properly processed later in the safer confines of our room.

Fortunately, I didn’t have to undergo the painful dissection that night because like all the other nights I’d spent in Japan, I dozed off almost immediately as soon as my head made contact with the pillow.